You need to make sure that you read the label on the food that you are getting for your cat. Although it may seem strange because you can is a pet, their nutrition is still just as important as yours is which is why you should read the ingredients so that you are aware of what is in the food you are giving your cat. You also need to pay attention to what formula of cat food that you are purchasing. They have food for adult cats, kittens, aging cats, cats on diets, and everything in between. You don't want to be feeding your kitten adult food and vice versa.

After picking up the right food for your cat, there is matter of where to feed your cat, when to feed your cat, and how much to feed them. If you have never owned a cat before this can be quite a tricky process to figure out all on your own. First and foremost, you need to find a place that is ideal for your cat to eat at.

Think about it from your cat's perspective, you really wouldn't want to eat while adults and kids are running all around you and being loud. This is why you need to find a place that is quiet and accessible for your cat to have their food and water bowl. Once you decide on a particular place, don't keep changing it around because cats don't always deal well with that type of change.

Keep in mind that your cat might make a bit of a mess when they are drinking and eating so it may not be wise to put the food and water in an area that is going to be ruined by the mess. You also need to make sure that you are keeping the bowls clean and changing the water out on a regular basis in order to avoid your cat getting sick.

As far as when you should feed your cat, it is good to get your cat into the habit of eating at a particular time each day. Just as humans eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner at certain times, so should your cat. Of course this might not be quite so easy if you are away from the hose during the day, but there is a solution. If the cat is eating dry cat food you can simply put the entire days ration into the food bowl and your cat can eat from it throughout the day.

If you aren't sure you want to put it all in, you can choose to be half of it in the bowl. It's really up to you and your schedule as to what a regular and convenient feeding schedule will be, but it is wise to get a regular pattern started. Listed below will give you some ideas as to how to coordinate your feeding schedule.

• At 4-6 weeks
o 1/2 to 1 oz
? 3 to 4 times per day
• 7 weeks to 6 months
o 1 to 3 oz
? 3 to 4 times per day
• 7 months to 1 year
o 3 oz
? 2 times per day or you can leave 6 oz in their bowl all day

You can also look on the package of cat food that you buy for what they suggest you feed your cat.

Just as there are certain things that you need to keep in mind when feeding your cat, there are also certain thing that you shouldn't do when feeding your cat.

• You shouldn't give your cat bones; this is a good rule for any pet whether they are a cat or a dog. Chicken bones, pork bones, and fish bones are a big no because they can cause quite a bit of damage to your cats tummy and throat that could lead to a trip to the veterinarian or worse.

• Again a good tip for any animal, don't give your cat leftovers from the table. Although you think that you are doing them a favor by giving them a treat, you could be making a bigger problem when your cat begins to avoid their cat food.

• Cats can't eat two foods in particular, the first being chocolate and the second being onions. Both of these foods are considered a toxic food to your cat.

• Despite what you may have seen on television or in the movies, cats do not need to drink milk. What more, if you give milk to your cat you might find yourself cleaning up after an icky mess since it can cause diarrhea.

• The last tip is not to feed your cat any other animal's food. They need the nutrients that are in their cat food and dog food won't quite give them what they need.

There's a beautiful legend which tells that the Persian cat was created by a wizard from a sparkle, which jumped out of the fire, the shimmer of two far away stars and a curl of grey smoke. I'd say that this legend rather closely describes appearance and temperament of the Persian cat, but the real history of persian cat breed is not less interesting or less mysterious.

So how does such mutation as long hair appear in a domestic cat? None of its wild counterparts has long hair gene. Well, if only lynx and snow leopard have a slightly longer coat due to the environmental conditions of their habitat.

It's rather difficult now to investigate the origins of the long-haired cats, but most probably they are rooted in Persia, which is now called Iran. That's from where Pietro della Valle brought several long-haired cat beauties to Italy in 1620. And a few years later the scholar and naturalist Nicolas-Claude Fabri de Peiresc brought long-haired cats form Angora (now Ankara in Turkey) to France. When the first long-haired cats appeared in England (which is now called 'the second motherland of the Persian cats) they were called 'French cats'.

It's not exactly known whether those were the cats of one and the same breed. Nowadays it is the recognized fact that there existed several breeds of long-haired cats in the East. Angora cats were described as fluffy, light and active animals of a medium size, while well-known Alfred Edmund Brehm described long-haired Angora cats as big-sized and clumsy cats. He as well noted that grey and blue Angora cats were observed in the South of Siberia.

It's not easy to answer the question why the animal from hot Asian counties has got long hair, while Mother Nature usually gifted long-hair to animals from severe Northern countries.

There are several versions regarding the long-haired cats origin. Some believe that among the ancestors of the Persian cat breed there were long-haired cats form Siberia which at first got into East and Small Asia, and only then were brought to Western Europe.

Others believe that long hair was a mutation which happened to a short-haired cat in the East, which then was kept in the process of domestication and some sort of selection - thus the cats which got into Europe and Siberia were aborigineous to Eastern countries.

The third theory roots in the phenotypic differences between the Persian cats and other domestic cats. This theory suggests that massive stocky with the ears set wide, big round head are related to Pallas' Cat ( Felis manul ) otherwise known as Manul - wild cat which lives in Central Asia and has comparatively long hair, flat face with round eyes and ears set low on the head. Recent research however refutes this theory.

Such are the different Persian cat origin theories but anyway, all of them are pointing to Iran, Turkey and Afghanistan as the Persian cat native lands.

England is rightfully called the second Motherland of the Persian cats, as it were British cat fanciers who started to purposefully breed cat breeds (and primarily - Persian cat breed) in the 19th century. Although that was the time when the long-haired cats started being differentiated into Turkish Angora (long flexible body, silky but less thick coat, big pointed ears) and Persian cats (massive, with big round head and small ears), as a matter of fact only blue cats of the latter were called Persian, and all the rest were simply called 'long-haired' cats. Every of about 50 colors of long-haired cats was considered to be a separate breed. Till nowadays the Persian cat in England is not in fact called 'Persian' but rather 'long-haired', and every color variation is attributed to a separate cat breed. Also the official ruling of the British cat fanciers club regarding this issue was issued as early as 1910, the Englishmen still follow this kind of breed distinction.

The Persian cats arrived into America in the eighties of the 19th century and soon became a very popular cat breed. Unlike British clubs, in America all the color variations of the long-haired cats were attributed to one cat breed - "the Persian cat". There are lots of color variations for Persian cats but Persian show cats are limited to the following colors: solid color, shaded and smoke, tabby, particolor, bicolor.

For today we know about 150 variations of the persian cat breed and contemporary persian cat, due to the efforts of many breeders, is a work of art among the other cat breeds. New age Persian cats are quite different form their ancestors. The Persian cats of the 'old type' had a narrower face, the color variations were not so rich and the coat was not so thick and delightful. Contemporary Persian cat might have its coat as long as 10 centimeters. One could say that the contemporary persian cat is the result of selective breeding by cat breeders from different countries. Probably due to that fact there are several Persian breed standards and some of the traits are still not agreed upon.

For one, starting form the middle of the 20th century, American cat breeders's efforts were aimed at reinforcing traits peculiar to Persian breed - they were trying to breed a cat with even more massive, short body, even more round head and flat muzzle. As a result a new variation - Extreme Persian (or Peeked Faced Persian) - emerged. The first kittens of that type were born to red and red tabby persians in 1920-s. Although veterinarians believe that extreme manifestation of such traits is harmful to the animals health (specifically affecting their sinuses and breathing), and the despite the fact that British cat fanciers stand against such breeding, extreme persians are extremely popular in America and many European countries.

Contemporary persian cat became progenitor to a new breed - Exotic cat - a short-haired cat breed which has all the traits specific for the Persian cat breed with the exception of the coat length. Exotic cat is a hybrid with adorable temperament and excellent physical condition. The breed was created by American cat breeders in 1960-s. FIFe (Federation Internationale Feline) recognized the Exotic cat breed in 1984. Short (though longer than with other short-haired cat breeds) but awesome sparkly coat of the Exotic cat does not cause any problems with grooming.

West Hollywood expected to ban retail sales of dogs and cats
The West Hollywood City Council is expected Tuesday night to approve an ordinance that would prohibit most sales of dogs and cats in pet stores. The measure, which was unanimously approved at its first reading two weeks ago, is the city's latest piece of animal welfare legislation.

Read more on Los Angeles Times

WeHo To Consider Ban On Pet Store Cats, Dogs
West Hollywood is expected to ban the sale of cats and dogs at pet shops under a measure designed to strike a blow at so-called puppy mills.

Read more on CBS 2 Los Angeles

Is Your Cat Scratching Up all your nice Furniture?

Tips before you Buy a Cat Scratching Tree Or Cat Furniture!

First of all, when thinking of buying a cat scratching tree, you should determine which cat scratching tree would be best for your cat.

This all depends on your cats size, your cats climbing abilities and your cats age.

What size cat scratching tree is good for kittens? What is better for cats? Huge Cat scratching trees or small cat scratching trees? For kittens, I recommend you to buy a small, wide cat scratching tree, since most little cats (especially kittens) are careless and jumpy and can easily fall of a tall cat scratching tree and get hurt.

Make sure when buying a kitten scratching tree, that your cat tree doesn't have narrow, high ledges that the kittens can fall off... Therefore, I recommend to buy a great, fun, wide scratching tree for kittens and cats that is safe and provides lots of entertainment!

How will the Cat scratching tree entertain my Cats and Kittens?

By playing, jumping and scratching cats and kittens have a GREAT time on cat scratching trees.

Not only do cats ENJOY to be high up on a tree, (like in nature) but they also enjoy the fun of climbing up a cat scratching tree, scratching up the cat scratching tree and playing catch-me if you have 2 or more cats.

For almost all cats, (especially kittens) it is recommended to have many hanging mice and cat toys on the cat tree, so that especially the young kittens will get loads of entertainment, since they often get bored and restless.

If you have a BIG cat, you might want to get her/him a large cat scratching tree so that she will have plenty of room to climb and scratch and be able to exercise him/herself on the cat scratching tree.

You don't want a fat cat do you?

For older, lazier cats, a climbing tree with more room, more ledges for them to hang of and sleep on and more places to scratch.

What Color Cat Scratching Tree Matches My home best?

When getting a cat scratching tree, you can mostly choose what color you want it in too.

Try choosing a color that will best match your house.
If your walls and furniture are light, then you can take a lighter cat scratching tree.

However if your walls and chairs are dark wood, you might want to choose a dark cat tree.

WARNING: Never buy a cat scratching tree that doesn't have a cover/material over the ledges.

This means that there is no material covering the wood. This is cheaper but worse and dangerous for your cat since splinters can get into it's paws and injure it! Also, a cat tree without any covering material is ugly, plain and unpleasant for your cat to sit on.
Therefore, buy a good cat scratching tree that has a material covering to it!

Here's a recommended site for cheap cat scratching trees.

For more Cat Articles and a Fun CatLovers Community click here: http://catlovingcare.com

If you are sure your cat has fleas and ticks, then you need to treat your house:

# Most importantly, if you have just discovered the fleas and ticks on cats, then quarantine your cat to one room. Hopefully you will soon be killing fleas and tick quickly and you will soon see your little kitty cat again.

This must be done(unless too late already)so that all cat fleas and ticks will hopefully stay in one room and you wont have a complete flea infestation.

# Vacuum the whole house to get rid of any fleas and ticks on the floors or furniture. They often like to hide in all kinds of places.

# Make sure to wash and disinfect all your clothes in case any fleas or ticks are hiding inside of them, as they often do. Also, you may want to spray your clothes in case fleas have planted their flea larvae inside.

# Next, shake all rugs, if you have any, and vacuum them as well.

# You can also use a flea and tick control spray to get rid of any fleas and ticks on your cat and house. The flea and tick spray to kill any hidding fleas and ticks.

# Make sure to wash your bedroom and other rooms very well too. Any closets or wardrobes must be thoroughly washed and checked.

How to get rid of fleas and ticks on your cat:

# First of all, wash your cat in an "anti flea bath." This often means you will have to wash your cat in a bathtub with water and flea shampoo.

# Be very careful that the soap and water doesn't go in your cats eyes. Cats naturally hate water and being bathed so most people who don't know how to bath a cat will most likely encounter serious difficulty with this step.

To avoid having problems when bathing a cat, I recommend you to read more on how to bath a cat here: http://twitpwr.com/howtowashyourcat/
Or here: http://catlovingcare.com/

# After drying your little cat with a towl, sitt your cat down between your legs and start the work of combing the ticks out. First tackle one half of its hairs before brushing through to remove the fleas and ticks from the other half. Brush slowly and regularly, trying not to pull out any hairs. If there still are some consistent ticks, then use a pair of pincers to pull them out!

# When pulling ticks out of your cats furr, you must be very careful to avoid leaving the head of the tick inside, as this will cause infections, some of them deadly.

# When pulling out a tick, take a lighter and hold it near her or his fur.
Beware to part his or her fur BEFORE lighting the lighter. When the fire comes near the tick, it will roll up and be easy to remove.
WARNING: Be very CAREFUL when using this method of killing fleas and ticks! Sometimes a better option is to search online for a flea and tick remover for example tick twister.

# Make sure to buy a cat flea and tick control. This is needed to be sure that after your hard work killing fleas and ticks on your cat, the fleas and ticks don't come back again. you can find all kinds of good flea and tick control here: http://squidoo.com/frontline-plus-flea-control-for-cats
Frontline is my personal favorite.

If you get a flea and tick shampoo or treatment online, check the fur every few days to be sure the fleas or ticks are gone. If you do see more fleas or ticks, quarantine your pet, and begin the whole process again.

Hope this will help you quickly start killing fleas and ticks and get rid of fleas and ticks on your pets for good!

Greetings,
your friend Cat camille - known published author', article_summary = 'Is killing Cat Fleas and Ticks easy? How can i get rid of fleas and ticks affordably? Learn here how to kill fleas and ticks on cats and in your home in only a few easy steps! Start killing fleas and ticks on cats and humans today->', article_authorinfo = 'Camille, a published author from CatLovingCare.com. is here to share with you all kinds of good deals and cat tips. From her professional cat experience, she there for knows a lot about cats and can help you with her knowledge too. She loves sharing tips, tricks and other useful information all around cats and is always willing to help answer a question. Visit her on http://catlovingcare.com or ask her a question. She will be sure to answer you as fast as possible! Cat- Camille'

If your cat has fleas and ticks, then you need to start killing fleas in your house:

# Most importantly, if you have just discovered the fleas and ticks on cats, then quarantine your cat to one room.

Hopefully you will soon be killing fleas and tick quickly and you will soon see your little kitty cat again.
This must be done(unless too late already)so that all cat fleas and ticks will hopefully stay in one room and you wont have a complete flea infestation.

# Vacuum the whole house to get rid of any fleas and ticks on the floors or furniture. They often like to hide in all kinds of places.

# Make sure to wash and disinfect all your clothes in case any fleas or ticks are hiding inside of them, as they often do. Also, you may want to spray your clothes in case fleas have planted their flea larvae inside.

# Next, shake all rugs, if you have any, and vacuum them as well.

# You can also use a flea and tick control spray to get rid of any fleas and ticks on your cat and house. The flea and tick spray to kill any hidding fleas and ticks.

# Make sure to wash your bedroom and other rooms very well too. Any closets or wardrobes must be thoroughly washed and checked.

How to get rid of fleas and ticks on your cat:

# First of all, wash your cat in an "anti flea bath." This often means you willhave to wash your cat in a bathtub with water and flea shampoo.

# Be very careful that the soap and water doesn't go in your cats eyes. Cats naturally hate water and being bathed so most people who don't know how to bath a cat will most likely encounter serious difficulty with this step.

To avoid having problems when bathing a cat, I recommend you to read more on how to bath a cat here: http://twitpwr.com/howtowashyourcat/

# After drying your little cat with a towl, sitt your cat down between your legs and start the work of combing the ticks out.

First tackle one half of its hairs before brushing through to remove the fleas and ticks from the other half. Brush slowly and regularly, trying not to pull out any hairs.

If there are still some consistent ticks, then use a pair of pincers to pull them out!

# When pulling ticks out of your cats furr, you must be very careful to avoid leaving the head of the tick inside, as this will cause infections, some of them deadly.

# When pulling out a tick, take a lighter and hold it near the or his fur.
Beware to part his or her fur BEFORE lighting the lighter.
When the fire comes near the tick, it will roll up and be easy to remove.

WARNING: Be very CAREFUL when using this method of killing fleas and ticks!

# Make sure to buy a cat flea and tick control. This is needed to be sure that after your hard work killing fleas and ticks on your cat, the fleas and ticks don't come back again.

You can find all kinds of good flea and tick control here: http://catlovingcare.com

Frontline Plus for cats is my personal favorite. read why...

#In the case that you buy a flea and tick shampoo or treatment online, check the fur of your cat every few days to be sure the fleas or ticks are gone.

If you do see more fleas or ticks, quarantine your cat, and begin the whole process again.

Hope this will help you quickly start killing fleas and ticks and get rid of fleas and ticks on your pets for good!

Greetings,

Your friend Cat Camille - known published author

How to bath a cat easily!? Cat Bathing made simple for both humans and cats.

[1] Make sure that the Water Temperature is right for Bathing Cat.

The water should be luke-warm when going to bathe cat, more on the room-temperature side, because if you put hot water on your cat, it will get burned.
Cold water is always a better solution for bathing cats or kittens. Cats don't mind the cold. Unlike myself.

Yet water should not be tooo cold when bathing a cat-  you know what I mean - not so freezing cold that your poor cat shakes and its teeth chatter... Just pleasantly luke-warm, like for a baby bath.

[2] What Should You Bathe Cat In?

Choose a shallow bathing tub that your cat can easily stand in. Deep buckets might cause cats to panic and feel as though they're stuck in a narrow clastrophobic well.

Best would be a shallow plastic container or a small laundry bucket, that is safe for cats and not slippery.

We plan on introducing our cats to water in a gradual way and not throw them into a 6 foot/2m pool and have them get a heart attack from fright.

Place a towel around the dish so that your cat can stand on it afterwards and get dry. Also the towel aroung the cat bath will prevent your house from drowning under water. ;-D

You can also use a rubber mat for the bath bottom, so the cat won't slip, but it isn't a " must have ".

If it's a slippery tray, then the rubber mat is advisable, but if it is a plastic dish, then you don't need to worry about it. Anyway, it's a shallow cat bath so there is no risk.

[3] How Deep Should The Cat Bath Waters Be?

Start bathing your cat with just enough water to be above cats  feet.

For the time bathing kittens or washing cats, just place your cat in the tub and let cat play around in there. Cats will get used to the bath and think it is fun.

Tips For Playing With Your Cat In The Tub:

If you play with your cat inside the cats bath with a string, or with some other toy  your cat will enjoy bathing and want to get in there again.

Make it the place where you play with your cat with a certain item (like a mouse on a string or some kind of "cat bathing" toy.) you only use in bath. Your cat will be glad to jump in there and want to play with you.

Another cat bathing motivator is giving your cat a few yummy cat treats when he baths.

Next Stages Of Cat In The Tub

Don't worry if your cat makes a mess. The towels  you places around the bath tub will mop up most of it.

Gradually you can begin to increase the depth of the water.

Beware: For most cat types, water should never be deeper than cat's knees.

This should be enough water to give your cat a bath, without creating the fear of drowning panic in your cat's mind.

How to wash your cat in the cat bath?

Don't pour the water over your cat or dunk her inside, instead use a wet cloth and dab your cat with it over his or her fur while paying with it in the bath.

Some cats are amazingly expert swimmers, maybe you will have the next "swimming champion", but don't push your cat to be one...

For more information visit CatCamille's website: http://catlovingcare.com

Good luck bathing your cat!

Catscamille

What Cat Bowls and Cat Food Dishes are Safe for my Cat to use?

Cat Food dishes are a very common and easily found cat food item. Yet sometimes, if there isn't a shop in your near you might have to go online to find the right cat food dish. In which case you should first compare a few different cat food dishes and cat food bowls before desiding for one spesific cat food bowl.

You can also compare prices for your cat food dish in a few different shops, but mostly the prices for cat food dishes will be the same, since it's such a low priced item any way.....

All cats need to eat from something and of course if you have a cat you will need to have a cat food dish or food bowl. There are the most common kinds of cat food dishes such as plastic food dish for cats, stainless steal cat food dish and a ceramic or porcelan cat food bowl.

Compare these three most common cat food dishes and cat food bowls to find which one is the right one for your cat!

There are three common kinds of cat food bowls and cat food dishes:

A ceramic or porcelan cat food dish A plastic cat food bowl A stainless steel cat food dish

A Ceramic or Porcelan Cat Food Dish

A lot of ceramic and porcelan cat food dishes are very beautifully decorated. Ceramic Cat food dishes are heavier then other cat food dishes and wont fall over if thrown around. However if you buy a fancy painted cat food bowl, make sure that it is marked "safe for food". Some fancy, decorated and beautiful cat food dishes contain lead in the paint or glaze (or other things), which is poisonous when eaten by humans or pets. Usually if the food dishes are safe for people to use, then they will probably be safe for your cat.

Just check to make sure!

Plastic Cat Food Bowl - safe or not?

Plastic cat food bowls are commonly sold in pet supply stores and are easy to clean, can not be broken and are usually very cheap too.

Nevertheless, plastic cat food dishes are not highly recommended.
They tend to get scratched easily and could house bacteria that will make your cat or kitten sick.

The plastic cat food dishes also get slime on the sides and that can caus serious problems for your cat and for you too.

Our cats like to play with any water dish or cat food dish and fling them across the floor causing a lot of mess and water. There for plastic bowls aren't recommended since they are easier to fling and knock over and can really caus a big mess!

WARNING: Sometimes, a very cheap plastic cat food dish might come with a very sharp edge that could perhaps cut your cats lips or skin. Therefor check any plastic cat food dishes before buying any cat food dish or bowl.

Stainless Steel Cat Food Bowls:

Stainless steel bowls are solled almost everywhere. Stainless steal cat food bowls are dishwasher safe and sturdy. However there are some minuses to consider before buying any stainless steal cat food dish....

Some people think that stainless steel cat food bowls are not a good choice either since they give the cat food a bad metallic taste. Although I never had a bad experience with steal cat food dishes, (since I have never bought a stainless steal cat food dish for my cats) I can imagine that it probably would have the same affect as our steal pott that made us sick!

However since i personly have not tried it, you could give it a go if you wanted to!

3 Cat Food Bowl Tips:

1. Whatever type of dishes you purchase, make sure they are washed out and refilled every day with clean fresh water.

2. Use a wet sponge to rub the sides and corners of the cat food dish to make sure that no bacterias and slime are growing there.

3. TIP: When you choose any cat food dishes for your cat, buy something that is sturdy, dishwasher safe and made of metal or ceramic that wont brake if your cat/s knock it over and wont make the cats food taste bad!

For lots more information on cats and kittens visit my blog: http://catlovingcare.com

Thanks for reading!

CatsCamille